STANDARD DUAL MAP ENHANCER - RED TO ECU, BLACK TO GROUND,
GREEN (OR BROWN) TO MAP SENSOR
This information shows a typical installation of a MAP Sensor Enhancer. It will be exactly the same if there are two potentiometers – you would (1) identify the line coming out of your Map Sensor (the sensor is usually on the firewall or on the intake manifold), cut the signal wire and then (2) the device would simply be connected BETWEEN THE SENSOR AND THE ECU (computer).
The device also connects to ground, any ground available or the sensor's ground. If you follow the color code we've been using, then ground wire is BLACK, the line from the sensor is BROWN and the line going out to the ECU is RED, except for the GL3P.
If you have a hard time locating the wires DO NOT DO ANYTHING! Stop right there and leave this job to a mechanic. Guesswork won't serve you right this time. One wrong connection may burn the computer and you'll be wasting hundreds of dollars on repairs. This is a very simple connection but must be done with confidence.
MAP-GL3 – This unit is the same as our MAP sensor enhancer, however, it has three green LED lights to monitor any number of HHO generators. Wires are the same as noted above but the green wire goes to your first HHO generator(s), after the fuse. The white wire goes to your second HHO generator(s), and the blue wire goes to your third HHO generator(s).
GL3P - This is the MAP, O2 and three HHO water generator green light unit.
Black wire (with silver next to it) is the ground lead.
Solid white wire - O2 power in. Make sure the 600 Ohm resistor is in place before placing 12 volts to this line. You can also remove the resistor and put the positive side of a 1.5 volt (AA) battery or even two of them for 3 volts. NOTE: unlike the MAP wire, you DO NOT cut this wire. You simply tap into it to suppliment the voltage.
Solid red wire - O2 output, variable with the dial. This line has a diode to prevent power from backing into the unit. It goes to the O2 sensor wire that is the fluctuating voltage. Tap into this line, do not cut it. The idea is to dial up or induce additional voltage into the O2 sensor line.
White/Black wire - To MAP sensor
Red/Black wire - To ECU. NOTE: You can create both the MAP sensor line and the ECU line by cutting the fluctuating voltage line that goes into the MAP sensor. Now you have two lines, the White/Black wire goes to the MAP and the Red/Black wire goes to the ECU. The idea is to reduce or dial back voltage going from the MAP to the ECU.
This is what I have done with my own car: I found the wire, using push pins and my volt meter, from the MAP (that puts out a voltage of 2 – 5 volts. I than cut this wire and the white/black wire of our unit goes to the MAP (it goes to the ECU) side and the red/black wire went to the ECU side. This takes care of both wires with simply cutting one wire.
Green, Blue and Orange wires - These wires go to the post side, near your water generator, of your positive lead, after the fuse. You can use them with any number of HHO generators (one with each up to three, one with two HHO generators and one fuse per pair equaling six HHO generators, etc. The green light wire also powers the other lights. Each wire has a 600 Ohm resistor to bring the incoming 12 volts down to 2 volts for the LED lights.
NOTE: It is very important to monitor your HHO generators. If one should blow a fuse you will need to dial back the controls to more gas, otherwise you could run too lean and harm your engine.
PLEASE DO NOT pull hard on any of the wires as you may short the unit out.
NOTE: MOST ALL VEHICLES ARE DIFFERENT. BEFORE ADDING THIS UNIT OR ANY ELECTRICAL PARTS, GAIN NECESSARY KNOWLEDGE TO INSTALL IT CORRECTLY. CONSULT YOUR MASTER MECHANIC CONCERNING ALL HOOKUPS.
BEFORE INSTALLING THIS UNIT, PLEASE CHECK WITH YOUR MASTER MECHANIC FOR DETAILS.
More information can be found at: Water4Gas.com and WaterGas123.com/map.htm
Purchaser agrees to hold the seller harmless in the event of injury, damage or any other problem caused in or by the use of this device. No guarantee on electronic parts as improper hookup can damage parts.
NOTE: These designs are Patent pending and design copyright 2008 JSG Co.
Here is the procedure I use:
Take a "AA" battery and solder leads to each end, black or green to the ground (-) side and red to the positive side (+).
On the end of the cable on your GL3-P you will find red leads and white leads. One pair has black stripes.
Clip your ground from your battery and your negative from your test/volt meter to the black lead on the end of the GL3-P cable.
Clip your positive from your "AA" battery to the solid white wire on the GL3-P cable end.
Clip the positive or red lead from your test meter to the solid red wire on the GL3-P cable end.
Now rotate the knob on the O2 side of the GL3-P and the voltage should go up.
NOTE: If the solid white wire has a resistor soldered onto it, you may need to tap into the wire above the resistor for the "AA" battery to be useful. The resistor is so you will not burn out the LED lights with twelve volts directly in.
NEXT test the MAP side:
Clip your positive from your "AA" battery to the white/black wire on the GL3-P cable end.
Clip the positive or red lead from your test meter to the red/black wire on the GL3-P cable end.
Now rotate the knob on the MAP side of the GL3-P and the voltage should go down.
TESTING the LED lights:
Simply take the black or ground lead from the battery and clip it to the black wire on the GL3-P cable end.
Now clip the red or positive lead from the battery to the three light wires (green, blue, and orange). The lights should work in a dim mode as they are resisted for 12 volts.